|
Lea, New Mexico's Last
Frontier
by Gil Hinshaw
Published by The Hobbs
Daily News-Sun
1976
Chapter VIll
Hobbs: The Black
Gold-Rush City
The Many Towns of Hobbs
James Berry Hobbs
Boom Collapse and Recovery
Hobbs: Oasis on the Llano
Bibliography
Unbroken all before them was the Texas Llano
Estacado, treeless, bare, the grass left brown by the passing of winter. The two
wagons bearing the family of six and all their earthly possessions had been days
now on the eternal flatness, their route veering ever toward the southwest.
Two small girls, almost identical in size and
appearance, ran ahead of the straining teams. The girls' movements and laughter
expressed their excitement and wonder at the new world in which they found
themselves. Far back to the east on their journey, trees had long ago
disappeared from the landscape; and now there were horizons as far as they could
see in all directions. This new alien world was unlike anything they had ever
seen, or imagined, and they were filled with a sense of anticipation. Something
as magical as Alice's Wonderland could very well unfold before them just over
the next horizon.
Finally, in the very great distance ahead, they
were rewarded. A tiny dot appeared. As it grew in size it proved disappointing
to the girls' real and imagined adventure. It was another pioneer family, only
they were bound in the opposite direction, headed toward the northeast from
which the girls and their family had come.
When the two families met and stopped, there was
a feeling of joy all around. Even though they were strangers, it was good to
know they were not alone in the empty world through which they were passing.
"Where are you headed?" called out the man who drove the wagon from
the southwest. "We're going to Alpine," the girls' father replied
happily. "Don't go to that d--- place," replied the other man.
"We have come from there. We couldn't make a living." "Well,
neighbor, how far back is the road to New Mexico?"
Had that chance meeting of strangers never taken
place in early 1907, Hobbs, New Mexico today could bear any one of a thousand
other names, because James Isaac Hobbs did not continue with his family to
Alpine to settle in a new home as he had intended. He pointed his two wagons due
west and set a course for the Territory of New Mexico.
That long ago day and the chance meeting of
migrating families on the Texas Llano were recalled in later years by Minnie
Hobbs Byers. She and her twin sister, Winnie, were the little girls who had run
ahead of the wagon driven by their father, James Hobbs, bent on homesteading in
the West. They arrived in March of 1907 on the site of the future city that
would bear the family's name.
The family, which also included two other
children, James Berry Hobbs and Ella, had been on the road seven months. In the
fall of 1906, James Isaac Hobbs and his wife, Fannie, had sold their farm near
May in Brown County, Texas, and embarked on their journey westward. Both Fannie
and her son suffered ill health and believed a change in climate might work a
cure, and when Mrs. Hobbs learned that good homesteads were available on the
western frontier, the decision to leave Brown County was made. En route, they
visited relatives and made extra money picking cotton. It was at Coleman that
friends advised the Hobbs family to "go to the mountains" for reasons
of health and therefore set their sights on Alpine. It also was at Coleman that
the first winter weather overtook them and their travels were made through
bitter cold temperatures at times.
After their detour away from Alpine they arrived
in New Mexico and claimed 160 (later, 320) acres of free land for their
homestead. The site to put down roots was not chosen at random. An uncle, Louis
Cain, had settled in the area a year or so earlier and, thus, the family was not
completely alone on the New Mexico Llano; but the Hobbses were among the first
homesteaders. As Minnie Hobbs Byers remembered: "The country was new and
untouched." Another homesteader in the vicinity at the time was W. D.
Marshall who, perhaps, deserves a small niche in the history of future Hobbs. He
obtained lumber and helped James Hobbs build a dug-out to house his family. The
site was in the vicinity of present-day First and Texas Streets in Hobbs.
There is evidence that James and Fannie Hobbs
were not entirely satisfied with their new home on the wilderness frontier. They
lived for a period of time in the wagons which brought them to New Mexico and
they talked of moving on further west, possibly to Estancia, at the time a good
farming area to the northwest in the central part of the territory. Hobbs, who
brought with him his possessions and working capital of $1,000, was better off
financially than were most pioneers and could have afforded himself the luxury
of shopping for a better homestead. It seems that once the dug-out was completed
and his family settled in, he accepted the idea of remaining on the Llano. He
continued to develop the homestead by digging a well, acquiring a windmill and
settling down to farming his acreage. Later a frame house was constructed on the
site.
Another incentive for keeping the Hobbs family
on the Llano might have been the continued good health of Fannie and James
Berry, The salubrious aspects of Estancia's climate had not been tested. The
mother and son had started to feel better shortly after departing Brown County,
and this mend in their health had not changed after arriving at the new homesite.
Isolation for the Hobbs family in their new home
on the plains was short-lived. During 1908 and 1909 new settlers came in a flood
of covered wagons to sprinkle the prairie with homesteads on newly acquired free
land, and James Hobbs saw the time was right to enlist his neighbors 1 support for a school. On horseback he rode over the community, which by now
numbered about 50 families, and solicited donations to finance construction of a
school house. A frame structure measuring 16 by 20 feet, it was located east of
what is today the intersection of Marland Boulevard and Dal Paso Street 1
in modern Hobbs.
This rural school, enrolling 42 children, for a
three-month term, opened in the fall of 1909, with Lucille Howe as the first
teacher. Her salary, however, was not paid from local sources. Under an accord
reached between the settlers and the territorial government, the teacher's
salary was paid out of territorial funds in Santa Fe, while the local population
underwrote the cost of the school building and its maintenance. The latter was
rudimentary at best. An account of the early school tells in part that:
The fuel was mostly mesquite roots, some
coal and some ‘nature's prairie coal.' The parents who had children
attending school grubbed the mesquite roots and brought them to the school.
Later when the building was used for all of the community events such as
church services, literary societies, box suppers, singings and various
programs, complaints were made that the school's fuel was being used for
purposes other than the school, so a second wood pile was donated for other
than school events.
Coal oil wall lamps were used. At one time
during the hard years the church-going people took a dime collection to buy
coal oil (25 cents a gallon), The school obtained an old fashioned organ.
From time to time some small school houses were added to this building, a
basement was dug to take care of the on-coming population... |
Settlers of the Methodist faith held the first
formal church services in this building, it is believed, followed by the
Baptists, although inter-denominational, or union services as they were often
called, were taking place as late as the mid-1920s.
Berry Hobbs took the lead in laying further
foundations for a settlement. Sometime in 1909 he established the first general
merchandise store to serve the community. The date and location of this first
Hobbs business have been disputed by historians and later members of the Hobbs
family. His sister, Minnie Hobbs Byers, has identified the location simply as on
the old "Midland to Portales trail," a route much used by pioneer
freighters of the period to haul supplies by wagon from the railroad in Midland,
Texas, to the various points on the Llano in New Mexico. This would place the
store definitely on present-day Dal Paso Street in modern Hobbs. Dal Paso, a
corruption of the names Dallas and El Paso, was a main wagon route of the period
for traffic, hence the notion that it would develop one day as a highway between
Dallas and El Paso. It also was crossed by pioneers going in other directions on
the Lea Llano, and the younger Hobbs could see the advantages of locating a
business where it could cater to travelers on the plains. The store stood
slightly northwest of the present Dal Paso and Marland intersection. The rural
school was several hundred yards away, across Dal Paso.
James Berry Hobbs, although young, exhibited a
good understanding of business enterprise, something that remained with him
during his short lifetime. After all, he was a young adult at the time he
launched the store operation. Born Dec. 5, 1887 in May, Texas, he was 20 years
old when his parents settled on the New Mexico Llano, and was of an age to want
independence and his own means of income. Too, it must be pointed out, that
rather than remain with his father's farming endeavor, Berry had claimed his own
homestead of 160 acres. For a period of time after the store was built he made
his home in the same building.
The date of the store venture is inexact, but
strong evidence sets its opening in 1909, although later writers have given the
year as 1910. The essential fact pointing to the earlier time frame for the
Hobbs store is the post office operation which eventually was maintained in the
back of the building. The government required that all rural pioneer postal permits
be granted only after the local post office official had carried the mail
without charge for three months; and since most all historians concur that Berry
Hobbs first opened the store and then obtained a post office, it seems likely
that the store began in 1909 because the Hobbs post office became an official
function on Jan. 28, 1910.
Hobbs, New Mexico, came into existence on that
date, but it would be 18 years before it could be called a settlement, and
longer still before it would mature into a city. Over the long years ahead, past
the creation of Lea County in 1917, the great blizzard of 1918 and the drought
and recession of the early 1920s, Hobbs would remain a rural community with a
store, post office, school, several homesteads and the ever-present windmills
pointing into the wind. These first institutions created but a thin veneer of
American civilization at Hobbs. Otherwise, the community remained steadfastly a
product of the Llano frontier: Isolated, inconvenient, even harsh for the people
who wrestled with the stubborn land for sustenance.
Hobbs, in its beginnings, is unique among the
cities that survive today in Lea County. It existed longer than any of the
others without becoming what could be defined as a settlement or village. While
in their incipient years Lovington, Eunice, Jal and Tatum attracted several
businesses and even newspapers, Hobbs remained but a place sequestered in the
wilderness. Once free of this restraint, it was destined to become larger than
all of the other towns and cities placed together.
Before official mail service was brought to the
Hobbs settlers, the nearest postal facility to provide mail was at Roberts,
later Nadine, about six miles to the south. After the Hobbs Post Office began
service, Monument, the settlement 15 miles to the southwest, became the point
where the Hobbs postal pouch was delivered and picked up daily. Monument
received and sent out mail for the entire area through Carlsbad, some 60 miles
to the west in Eddy County.
Receiving and sending mail from the
Roberts-Nadine post office was inconvenient, as Minnie Hobbs Byers, points out,
and Berry Hobbs, aware of this situation, saw a further opportunity to improve
his store operation by bringing the mails directly to the residents of his
community.2 He
reasoned that if settlers had to come to his store for mail service, they also
would be tempted to make purchases. The new post office, then, was a lure-an
indirect form of advertising for the Hobbs Mercantile Company. Apparently the U.
S. Post Office Department selected the name Hobbs for Berry's mail office. When
making application for the post office, he had suggested the names Taft and
Prairieview; however, when the permit was granted government officials
designated the name Hobbs.
For reasons unknown, Berry was not the first
postmaster at Hobbs. official federal post office records show the title held by
George W. Rogers during the year 1910. He was followed by a C. Land in 1911 and
1912, and, inexplicably, no postmaster is listed for the years 1913-1914.
William Boswell is the postmaster of record for the period 1915-1919, the latter
year being near the time when Berry Hobbs sold his store to Bismarck Turner for
whom Turner Street is named in modern Hobbs. Mrs. Turner held the postmaster's
job in 1919-1920.
The migration of settlers to the Hobbs community
was at its height in 1909Igio and virtually completed by the beginning of 1911.
As that year began the Hobbs family had many neighbors. Records show the
following homesteaders, or claims, within a five-mile radius of the Hobbs store
and post office:
E. H. Byers, D. 0. Rogers, W. D. Marshall, S, A.
Thompson, L. C. Ball, Otto Kuhn, John West, L. A. White, B. L. Thorpe, M. C.
Storey, W. A. Dunnam, Louis Cain, H. P. Vest, G. R. Littrell, E. J. Thompson,
Horace Howard, John Bilbrey, S. R. Payton, Morton Wright, E. Griggs, Mrs. S. J.
Howard, James Sparks, M. T. McCormick and A. J. McWilliams.
Of some of those neighbors and the quality of
life in pioneer days, Minnie Hobbs Byers later would reconstruct this revealing
picture:
Among our new nester neighbors were a poor
but cultured family of the Deep South; an educated young lawyer hoping to
regain his health in the high dry climate of the plains; an accomplished
teacher 'of dramatics from one of our larger cities; our first school marm,
a charming red head; also the ‘biled shirt, dude collar' Yankee (Ernest
Byers) who later became my husband. This resourceful group, for want of
nothing better to do, organized a dramatic club and put on some performances
that would have made a modern Little Theater group sit up and take notice.
This was all accomplished in the little
school house with an improvised stage, Wagons were backed up to the windows
for dressing rooms. The curtains were borrowed wagon sheets strung on a wire
and propelled by volunteers. Lighting effects were whatever the neighbors
had to offer in the way of kerosene lamps and lanterns. A ‘git-tar picker'
and a fiddler volunteered to play while the crowd gathered, most of them
coming garly so as to get a good seat. Late-comers had to be content with
looking in the windows. |
The frontier character of the Hobbs community
prevailed for more than a decade and a half after the post office was founded.
Some of the homesteaders' children grew up to take their parents places on the
land; some lived with their mothers temporarily in Lovington during the fall and
winter months to attend high school; others went on to nearby institutions of
higher learning such as the College of Artesia; while still others, facing the
duress of drought and a depressed economy on the Llano, moved away to distant
places to find jobs and make homes for themselves.
The roads in and out of the community remained
wagon trails that led eventually to railroads more than 70 or 100 miles distant,
and from those railheads there were even greater distances to great centers of
commerce where technology and industrialization provided the wonders of
comfortable and convenient American life in vast quantity. Prior to 1927-1928,
automobiles in the Hobbs community were a rarity, buggies, wagons and horses
serving as a mainstay of transportation. One of the first owners of a
gasoline-driven vehicle was Steve Taylor, who is remembered by "oldtimers"
for this fact and because he and his conveyance often were called upon in
emergencies to take an ailing person to the nearest doctor by the fastest means
over the rural trail that wound by Knowles and thence to Lovington. This was a
distance of more than 22 miles.
Some telling glimpses of the Hobbs community's
agrarian way of life on the Llano are provided in these excerpts from The
Lovington Leader of 1920:
The Hobbs Mercantile Co. were right busy
Saturday receiving cream which reminded us of old times and made us feel
that the plains, although hard hit for four years, would soon
be on her feet again...
Work began this week raising the foundation
of the north school room preparatory to joining the two rooms together,
which when finished, can by the use of folding doors, be made into one large
room, thus better accommodating the large crowds which often gather at
Hobbs... Messrs. Davis, Cain, Byers and Dudley Thorp have been busy the
first part of the week quarrying stone for the foundation of the school
house...
School began Monday with a fair attendance.
However, one principal has failed to show up so far, having been detained in
Lovington on account of car trouble... "Mrs. Tubbs of Shantytown,"
a Thanksgiving play in three acts, given at the school house on Wednesday
night, was attended by a large and appreciative audience... The program was
followed by a pie supper, the pie sales amounting to $50.35, the proceeds of
which will be expended for playground equipment, etc., for the school...
W. A. Dunnam, the syrup manufacturer,
started his syrup (molasses) mill to operating Monday and judging from the
many loads of cane which are daily being hauled in we calculate there will
be enough ‘lasses' to smear up the face of every urchin in Southeastern
New Mexico... Those who planted broom corn are turning the yields in at the
broom factory which will soon begin operation. Thus Hobbs proves to be the
largest manufacturing city in central Lea County. Anyone interested in
eating ‘lick' or sweeping floors, come down and we'll show you over the
town... |
The writer of the last news item took a great
deal of poetic license by calling the community a "town" which it was
not. In 1920, the same institutions that had existed in 1910 made up the Hobbs
community, with the only major change being the relocation of the Hobbs store to
the property of Bismarck Turner at another point on present Dal Paso Street. The
building was moved after Turner purchased the store from Berry Hobbs. Sometime
about 1921 the property was acquired again by its original owner, while the post
office was separated from the store and moved to the farm home of Ernest Byers
in the vicinity of what is now East Main Street. Byers, a brother-in-law of
Berry Hobbs, enclosed a portion of his porch to serve as the Hobbs Post Office,
and from there he dispensed and received the mails. He served as postmaster of
Hobbs until 1930.
In 1923, James Isaac Hobbs, one of the
community's first pioneers, died probably without ever dreaming that his
family's name and lands would lend themselves shortly to the building of an
important major city, that hidden just under his homestead was one of the
nation's major oil pools, and that it would make the semi-arid Llano bloom with
more progress than had been possible with all the water pumped by the settlers'
windmills. Born in 1855 in Tennessee, he had gone to Texas as a child of 12 to
seek his fortune. Most of his life's work was toil with the soil-the land, Near
the land he had homesteaded he was buried in the earth, unaware of how close he
came to finding his fortune.
His daughter, Minnie Hobbs Byers, wrote of him:
| I should like to write a book about my
fun-loving Irish father, his inimitable sense of humor, his innate love of
people, his ability to tell a joke, his musical talent which found
expression in a rich bass voice and a sweet-toned fiddle; that fidelity to
his friends, his love for his community which found fruition in his all-out
aid for every progressive effort toward the creation of a better community
life. |
James Isaac Hobbs' widow, Fannie, lived on until
1942 and was known to many in the community as "Grandma Hobbs."
Top
of the Page - The
Many Towns of Hobbs - James
Berry Hobbs - Boom
Collapse and Recovery - Hobbs: Oasis
on the Llano - Bibliography
The
Many Towns of Hobbs
Within a matter of months in 1928-1929, the
tranquil farmlands and mesquite-covered range of the Hobbs community underwent a
transformation that would lead to the creation of not one, but four would-be
cities: Hobbs and New Hobbs which became towns with separate municipal
governments; All Hobbs which remained nothing more than a settlement; and
Borger, destined to remain a townsite until it disappeared. It would take nine
years to bring this conglomeration together as one unit under one government,
that of the modern City of Hobbs.
Behind the wild proliferation of settlements and
the wave of humanity that swept over the Llano Estacado here was one impelling
force: Oil. It must not be believed that gushers of crude oil came geyser-like
out of the plains to touch off what eventually amounted to near bedlam in land
speculation and building in the Hobbs community. It took only the news that
exploration was beginning to cloud men's minds, inspire them with visions of
great wealth and plunge them into the vortex of a black gold rush that spread
over the long uneventful plains. Many of these men were old hands at the
oil-boom game. They were the veterans of boom towns such as Oklahoma City,
Borger, Burkburnett, Amarillo and Wink. Others were getting into the rush for
the first time, having watched it advance north and west out of Texas into Lea
County where the first important discoveries were made at Maljamar and Jal.
So, the word, sometimes embellished, sometimes
understated, went out late in 1927 that sequestered on the Llano was a place
called Hobbs where drilling was underway. This became momentous news for those
wise in the ways of oil, especially if they had learned previously that leasing
had taken place in the same area and that the results of magnometer tests on the
earth's surface there held out great expectations.
Thus, the stage was set at Hobbs for the
unfolding of one of the last great oil booms of the West-studded with all the
classic trappings: Instant towns that operated around the clock, instant wealth
pouring from the earth, crews of soiled and sunburned working men, flocks of
developers, promoters, adventurers and professional people of every description
moving in the vanguard. Before this drama was concluded the rural Hobbs
community would be assimilated by the technological-industrial world of America.
Without pomp and only a handful of men The
Midwest Refining Company (now Amoco) began drilling Oct. 12, 1927 on the
desolate plains near Hobbs, the northeast corner of Sec. 9, T. 19 S., R. 38 E.).
Midwest's Roswell manager, Ronald K. DeFord, had come to Hobbs in September of
1927 to establish the drilling site. Years later he wrote this vivid description
of what he found in the community at that time:
| ... I drove south to Hobbs, which consisted
of two buildings, Bob White's store, and across the country road
(now Dal Paso Street) the Hobbs school house. The nearest ranch house was
more than a mile away. From Hobbs we drove a mile south and a mile west, and
there I showed Edwards (the surveyor) where the location should be... |
The store mentioned in DeFord's narrative was
the old Hobbs Mercantile Co., sold before 1927 to Bob White by Berry Hobbs, who
was elected Lea County treasurer in 1926 and had taken office Jan. 1, 1927. He
would hold this position for three years.
Despite all sorts of adversities, including a
fire which burned the wooden derrick, the drill disclosed the first oil on June
13, 1928 at 4,065 feet. On November 8 of that year, the hole reached 4,220 feet,
having penetrated all the oil-bearing beds, and Midwest's State No. 1, the
discovery well of the future Hobbs oil pool, was completed, producing 700
barrels of oil per day on state land leased by the Will Terry ranch. Today, 48
years later, this historic well, still produces quietly near the intersection of
Grimes Street and Stanolind Road in Hobbs, with most passersby unaware of the
furor its gestation and birth created nearly half a century ago.
No one remembers who first was in the vanguard
of the legions of promoters and fortune-seekers that began descending on the
Hobbs community, or when they first arrived. Undoubtedly among the first were
land and townsite developers, who came, surveyed the situation and returned to
their points of origin to make plans to capitalize on the future promises of
Hobbs, or to forget their visit to the edge of New Mexico's last frontier. Those
with foresight, or intuition, could discern two frontiers: The advancing one of
oil-energy to turn the nation's wheels and drive its machinery-and the receding
one that had been the sparsely populated wilderness. One writer has described
the march of humanity on the Hobbs community in this way:
| The people came in Model Ts, in airplanes
and trucks and buses. Some even came on foot. With the legitimate workers
came the usual backwash of camp followers. Where six months before only
prairie had met the eye, a noisy, raggletaggle town of raw lumber store
buildings, shacks and tents shot up. |
Appropriately, Berry Hobbs once more played the
role of founder. Although he was county treasurer, he joined ranks (probably in
early June 1928) with the Seminole, Texas, banker, Buck Curry, to promote the
first townsite on land that was the Berry Hobbs homestead. Almost immediately
the developers disposed of their holdings, and around this transaction, The
Lovington Leader of June 29, 1928 built this report:
The latest town to come into prominence from
the oil activities in Lea County is the new oil town of Hobbs, located 25
miles southeast of Lovington.
The new town is located directly west of the
location of the present post office and school building. It is one mile
north of the Midwest well which was recently drilled to the pay and which
now seems to be good for a real producer.
A townsite company was formed several weeks
ago composed of New Mexico and Texas parties for the purpose of promoting
and selling the new town. Among the promoters were Berry Hobbs, county
treasurer and former owner of the townsite property, and Buck Curry, well
known banker of Seminole. Both these gentlemen have since that time sold
their interest in the new town at what is understood to have been a fair
profit. |
The Leader revealed further that lots were
selling briskly, that several new buildings were in the planning stages and that
"preparations are going forward for getting ready for caring for the large
influx of people who are expected to come almost immediately." In a story
several weeks later, the newspaper reported that lots were selling at prices of "$750 to
$1,000... no uncommon asking price..."
A Texas developer, A. C. (Art) Chesher, acquired
the townsite from Berry Hobbs and Curry, christened it the New Hobbs Development
Company, and proceeded with the sale of lots in an area that today is bound by
Marland Boulevard on the north, and Stanolind Road on the south. It was defined
by present Dal Paso Street to the east and on the west, today's Grimes Street.
Within a little more than a year this would become the location of New Hobbs, a
city complete with all the services afforded the public by a municipality of
that era.
While the New Hobbs Development Company was
thriving in what is now South Hobbs, two other settlements, one of them also a
townsite company, were forming on the New Hobbs boundaries. Just east across the
country road, often called the Jal Road (now Dal Paso), and south of Marland,
the settlement that would become All Hobbs was taking shape, but no townsite
company had formed to push its growth. Meanwhile, just across Marland Boulevard
and to the north of the New Hobbs Development Company's territory, the Hobbs
Townsite Company was being put together by financial interests in Texas and New
Mexico. This company's domain included all of the land north to the Sanger
pasture (today Sanger Street), running from Jal Road on the east to present
Grimes Street on the west. Here the first town would form within less than a
year and would be called Hobbs, or sometimes, Old Hobbs. 3
The Hobbs Townsite Company, incorporated Aug. 7,
1928, included a small army of share-holders and officers over a very short span
of time. The principals at the time of incorporation were, K. F. Albright and T.
Wade Potter of Littlefield, Texas; J. J. Carson and A. L. Gurley of Clovis; and
A. G. Trout of Hobbs; however when the stock was issued, J. R. Harris, soon to
be the first mayor of Hobbs, acquired the stock of Albright and Potter and was
elected the company president. Carson was elected vice president, while Trout
took the title of secretary and treasurer. Trout resigned on Jan. 3, 1929 and
the vacancy was filled by A. W. Board of Hobbs, a longtime justice of the peace.
Before Aug. 24, 1929, L. H. Tomlinson, W. A. Dunnam and H. D. McKinley became
stockholders, and on that date the company was purchased for $2,000 by W. M.
Snyder, a Lovington automobile dealer, and Carleton Clinton. At the time of
purchase 567 lots had been sold. Before the end of 1929, Seth Alston, the
Lovington banker, and C. L. Beatty became stockholders and Snyder was elected
president. In 1935, Clinton and his wife, Jennie, became the sole owners. They
dissolved the company on Dec. 20, 1944.
As time passed, the Hobbs Townsite Company did
not focus narrowly on the Promotion of land sales. Its leaders delved into
community needs and problems and established services that became lasting
landmarks in the town. Notable among these is the Texas & New Mexico
Railroad, brought to Hobbs in 1930 because the townsite company granted a free
right-of-way over its land; Clinton Park, which serves Hobbs to this day as a
playground for children and as the site of one of New Mexico's most impressive
libraries; the town's first paving (in 1931), three blocks of West Taylor Street at a
cost of $4,000; gifts of land to the Salvation Army and for a hospital site; and the
inducements of low rent, a strong factor in persuading several oil well supply
companies to make their headquarters in the town.
Several Hobbs Townsite ventures ended sadly
because of the economic collapse that came with the Great Depression. Among
these was its investment in the Hobbs State Bank and in a town newspaper.
Newspapers, both weekly and daily, appeared in
such array during Hobbs, greening years that no one could have been too far
separated from the printed word. One of the very first of which we have record
is The Hobbs Oil Driller, a weekly that appeared on September 6, 1928. How long
it published, or in which of the two townsites' confines is unknown. Only one
copy is known to be in existence. Apparently this courrier of the day's events
was short-lived.
As 1928 waned there was sufficient news to fill
a small four-column, onesheet weekly, the usual dimensions of boom-town
newspapers, which because they were transient in nature-hoping to make a quick
profit in the eruption of fast money-were set by hand, and printed on equipment
that could be moved speedily enough to catch the next boom area.
The pastoral face of the Hobbs community was
changing rapidly. Tents and shacks of every description were beginning to throng
both sides of the dirt road that ran west to Carlsbad. They started first in a
cluster around White's general store-post office and windmill and advanced
westward along both sides of the wagon trail. This main drag was first to
achieve a name, Carlsbad Street, but with years the logic of calling it such
seemed too obvious and it was given its present metropolitan-sounding name,
Broadway.
Hotel Hobbs, the area's first, was being
completed. Its advent had been announced June 1 in The Lovington Leader which
proclaimed:
| Everything looks most encouraging at the new
town of Hobbs, 20 miles southeast of Lovington... Arrangements have been
made for beginning work on a big hotel next week for the accommodation of
the large crowds which are expected upon completion of this well (obviously,
the discovery well). |
Meantime, in Lovington, the State Telephone
Company, owner of that city's communications system, had begun building the
first line between the county seat and Hobbs. When it reached the latter town in
1929, a single toll station was placed in the new post office on Main Street in
New Hobbs, while the line continued southward to provide Jal with a single
telephone box. As Hobbs bulged with people and businesses over the next three
years, switchboards were installed in New Hobbs, All Hobbs and in Hobbs. By
1932, the company could count 320 telephones, all serving business firms in the
three areas of Hobbs.
Drilling in the Hobbs area had intensified by
the beginning of 1929, widening the breach that incoming humanity was making in
the Llano wilderness. At the end of January close to 10 wooden business houses,
separated by wide intervals of dead grass and sand, flanked the sides of
Carlsbad Street; and as spring arrived, the most noticeable improvement being
made on this frontier thoroughfare was the level surface given it by a scraper
blade, which, incidentally, straightened the sides of the road by cutting the
north and south banks in a straight line.
The Lovington Leader of March 15, 1929 gave a
capsule report on what was taking place in the territory of its old neighbor to
the south:
Hobbs: The Black Gold-Rush City 197
Reports coming from the town of Hobbs
indicate a rapid and healthy growth of that enterprising little city. A
census which was recently taken showed it to have a population of more than
300 and that number has increased since that date. When it is taken into
consideration that the town is less than a year old and that most of this
growth has taken place within the last two months, it will be readily seen
that the record is something to be proud of.
Within the last two months a system of water
works has been installed by the Hobbs Water Co., and an up-to-date electric
plant has been recently installed. |
J. W. Carpenter was proprietor of this first
source of electrical energy, incorporated as the Plains Electric Company. It
sent out over its lines an astonishing 40 kilowatts of power to serve 29
customers. Carpenter and officials of his parent company, the Texas Power and
Light Company, appear to have been poor judges of what an oil discovery can do
to demands for power and by September of that year they had ordered additional
generating equipment to increase their output capacity for the ever4ncreasing
number of customers. On November 13, Carpenter appeared before the village
council to request a franchise for his utility company, the parent of today's
New Mexico Electric Service Company.
Delivery of water to the first few customers was
in the province of private enterprise, the utility being owned by the Hobbs
Water Company. The water franchise was issued by the village of Hobbs in
December to J. T. Godsey, who merged his interest in 1930 with the Hobbs Gas
Company, the owner of both utilities until the water system was brought under
municipal ownership.
Although there was an abundance of natural gas
in the Hobbs area, this service was somewhat behind the other main utilities in
reaching inhabitants of the growing community. In fact, it did not get started
until an election and a district court suit settled the question of who should
hold the franchise for providing gas. The new town board of trustees had granted
a franchise to C. G. Scott and Jimmy Sullivan for this purpose, but in the
meantime, two other promoters, recorded only as Adams and Mann, had won a
franchise from the Lea County Commission to provide service to Hobbs customers.
The town officials won a court injunction restraining the latter purveyors of
gas from continuing with their delivery system on the argument that "the
holders of the county franchise were without authority to put in the gas pipe
line and that the town board of Hobbs was the only body which could legally
issue a franchise for this purpose."
Reporting on the election to uphold the Hobbs
board's decision to grant the franchise to Scott and Sullivan, The Lovington
Leader of Oct. 4, 1929 carried this story:
... The city council had previously acted
favorably upon the proposition and in an election held Tuesday,
the vote cast was overwhelmingly in favor of granting the franchise. As a
result of this vote Hobbs will probably have gas piped into all the houses
of the town before the first day of November.
The gas will be obtained from the Midwest
discovery well and from the Midwest-Capps offset, both of which are located
only a little more than a mile from the center of the business district of
Hobbs... The people of Hobbs are jubilant over the certainty of having gas
before the coming of cold weather... |
With all of the obstacles cleared, Roy C.
Moyston, who had moved to Hobbs in 1928, acquired the interests of Scott and
Sullivan and opened the Hobbs Gas Company before the end of 1929 and was
supplying 300 customers.
Four blocks to the south, across Marland Street,
the officials of the New Hobbs Development Company were working frantically to
bring promising en. terprises to their fledgling settlement, New Hobbs. By
mid-1929, their still unofficial village could boast of having the only
newspaper in the Hobbs area. This was The New Hobbs [New Mexico] Reporter, which
rolled its first edition off the press on June 27, 1929. It appeared weekly
until May 7, 1931 when the rigors of depression were closing in over the oil
towns.
This publication had competition very shortly
from the neighbor town of Hobbs. There on Nov. 8, 1929, The Hobbs News, the
original ancestor of today's Hobbs Daily News-Sun, made its debut as a weekly
newspaper. As the oil boon, reached fever intensity the following year, the
publication would become daily, return to weekly status in the depression years
and finally become part of the city's present daily newspaper. This boom town
journal would have many marriages and numerous relatives before the birth of the
News-Sun in 1937, as we shall see later in this chapter.
In both Hobbs and New Hobbs growth continued to
accelerate as 1929 moved to mid-year and past. Newly arrived residents of the
time could witness an urban area materializing almost daily as new businesses
went up to the sound of hammers and saws ringing out across the Llano
grasslands. Hobbs itself seems to have experienced more impetus in the unfolding
panorama of growth and thus was first to form a municipal government.
Village government was formed on the night of
Sept. 5. 1929 when a group of men met in the Beal Service Station. Named as
mayor was I.M. Harris, while the trustees' posts went to D. H. Blakley, Ed
Cathey, George Roach and Walter Tomlinson. They selected as village clerk Mary
Francis Beal, who received a monthly salary of $100. Affairs of no great moment
seem to have been pressing at this first session of local government, but the
board of trustees did approve Hobbs' first entry in the code book. It was
Ordinance No. 1 establishing the seal. It read:
AN ORDINANCE ADOPTING SEAL OF THE VILLAGE OF
HOBBS, NEW MEXICO:
Be it ordained by the board of trustees of
the village of Hobbs, New Mexico
Sec. 1. That a seal, the impression of which
shall be as follows: In the center the word ‘SEAL*, around the outer edge
the words ‘VILLAGE OF HOBBS, NEW MEXICO* shall be and is hereby declared
to be the seal of the village of Hobbs.
Passed and approved this 5th day of
September, A. D. 1929. |
This first uneventful meeting was no preview of
things to come. In the months ahead, the village trustees would enact all manner
of ordinances to provide for the safety and welfare of the residents. Some even
seem puzzling today. For example, Ordinance No. 19 ordered all males between the
ages of 21 and 60 to pay a poll tax of $1 per year, and it was mandatory that
each individual have on his person at all times proof of the tax payment in the
form of a receipt. The individual who had no means of meeting this payment was
given the option of paying in labor to the city, the amount to be "one-half
day's work of not more than five hours employed on the city's streets, alleys,
parks or other municipal works."
Within the next 12 months the new village board
took a firm hold on the reins of government by hiring employes and
vesting authority in them, and through the laws that were approved. One has the
impression, however, that many of the men and women designated for municipal
duty were on a parttime basis. M. H. Showater was the first city attorney and
with his resignation on Jan. 8, 1930, he was replaced by Robert A. Estes, who
was paid in an odd manner: $5 from each fine levied by the city; Miss Jessie
Adkins was paid $25 per month to serve as city treasurer; J. P. White was
appointed head of the sanitation department at an unspecified salary; Charles S.
Beal, husband of the city clerk and owner of the service station where village
government was first formed, was named police magistrate, also at a pay scale
not recorded; and the city hired a fire chief (not named) at a rate of $50 per
month.
In addition to the police magistrate, the city
had another enforcer of law and order reminiscent of Wild West frontier days. He
was one Leo W. De Cordova, given the ominous-sounding appellation of "Vinegaroon"
and hired first as village marshal and later as the first chief of police. This
great hulking man, described as "pear-shaped" by those who remember
him, sought no trouble nor did he accept any. He held his own with the rough
element that descended on Hobbs in 1930 when it became a rip-roaring town, and
on occasion was known to shoot it out with a desperado.
Undoubtedly Mr. Vinegaroon took his cue from the
general tone that seemed to prevail as the town grew wild. It was one of
ignoring what one resident of those days called the "peaceful
illegalities." Some of these will be depicted later in this chapter. The
wrong-doers who went too far in offending the sensibilities of the law-abiding
were placed in the Hobbs jail, which by today's standards was a place of cruel
and unusual punishment. It was a large, all-metal tank chained to posts under
the broiling sun. Shocking as this may seem, it must be kept in mind that the
village under the pressure of boomtown times made the best of a bad situation in
the midst of what was still a frontier.
Even more amazing is the fact that Hobbs
maintained an official "pest house" where were kept those hapless
individuals who contracted highly infectious diseases that could touch off an
epidemic. This is borne out by the June 11, 1930 village minutes which report
the payment of $70 to J. L. Maddox for his services in nursing a case of
smallpox. The pest house, a common institution of the 19th century, seems oddly
out of place in an American town of the 1930s.
Vinegaroon appears to have served the village
well during the roaring zenith of the boom in 1930. Abruptly and without a
recorded explanation he was fired by the village on June 10, 1931. The town was
by then plunged into the throes of the depression and more than half of its once
teeming population had moved away The trustees approved a final payment of
$1,108.46 for this unusual enforcer.
Regardless of the heavy flow of money from new
oil, the village government had financial embarrassments, the severity of which
is illustrated by each of the trustees placing $100 of his own money in the
municipal treasury on June 11, 1930 to help tide the operation over until funds
were available from tax collections. Enormous amounts (for the times) of money
must have been required to establish a town on the barren plains, because as in
all other Lea County settlements at their inception, construction materials had
to be shipped in. Other costs accrued in establishing facilities and services
for the first time. Oil discoveries carried their liabilities for towns as
reflected in the wear and tear on streets. The Hobbs Board of Trustees on June
19, 1930 is found ordering the grading of streets that included Carlsbad from Dalmont to Cochran,
Taylor from Turner to Cochran, Shipp, Linam and Thorp. Other expenditures that
year were for the beginning of the municipal sewer system, the start of the
first permanent fire department and the hiring of Harry Gurst as city engineer.
The population explosion in Hobbs, New Hobbs and
All Hobbs toward the latter half of 1929 and through 1930 is best viewed in
terms of school enrollment. The Hobbs School, still part of the Lea County
School System, opened in the fall of 1929 in the building across Dal Paso Street
in New Hobbs with Mettie Jordan (later county school superintendent) as
principal, Ernest Manning teaching the upper grades and Maggie Lang as the lower
grade teacher. By the end of that year student enrollment required construction
of an additional room and hiring of yet another teacher, Alma Lane, to take
charge of primary grades. Before the school year terminated in the spring of
1930 the school had 298 youngsters in attendance.
At this point the rural school was abandoned.
The village of Hobbs opened its own educational facility, complete with high
school grades in the fall of 1930 at the site of present Will Rogers School; and
New Hobbs, not to be outdone, opened a similar educational institution on Main
Street. Both schools also had their superintendents, H. L. Groner serving in
this capacity in the Hobbs Schools, while Doug Smith held the same post in New
Hobbs Schools. With the beginning of that school year, the faculty required for
the two academic operations reached mammoth proportions: 53 teachers. Dr. J. L.
Burke, (later Jal School superintendent), who joined the New Hobbs Schools that
year as consultant and later high school principal, estimates enrollment at New
Hobbs as high as 300 students.
The dual school system, which only served to
heighten the rivalry between the two towns, is termed today by Dr. Burke as a
"de facto" situation. -Since only the county could sanction the
creation of such institutions, he feels that neither of the two towns' schools
operated under any type of academic legality. This was remedied by two factors
in the following years. In the summer of 1932, Hobbs and New Hobbs school boards
reached an accord on consolidation of the two educational systems, and that fall
they began a combined operation. A special measure, approved by the New Mexico
Legislature in 1933, conferred legal status on this school system. Few modern
schools have had a stranger chapter in their early history.
Shortly after the calendar page was turned to
1930, the oil boom that had been building in intensity at Hobbs suddenly
escalated to almost staggering dimensions. Humble Oil Company's No. 1-A Bowers
well about three miles northwest of Hobbs came in, producing 9,720 barrels of
crude oil per day. The effect was electric. The rush to reach this new bonanza
now became a stampede of humanity that overflowed in Hobbs, New Hobbs and All
Hobbs.
No amount of existing facilities could
accommodate the press of people to the new oilfields; and although men worked
night and day to construct hotels, "shotgun" houses and shacks, there
was never room enough for those needing shelter. The permanent and
semi-permanent buildings soon stood in a sea of shanties and tents flapping in
the wind, hence the name Rag Town, or Shanty Town, was sometimes applied in
derogatory references to the villages of Hobbs. People took refuge where they
could find it as verified by Minnie Hobbs Byers who recalled that a farm chicken
house left unguarded would overnight become the abode of a squatter. Some imaginative
individuals would bring their own little hut loaded on the back of a truck and
anchor it to the earth on any unclaimed spot of sand. One of the widely used
types of instant housing was the "park tent," a structure that
contained a wooden floor, surrounded by corrugated iron several feet high and
topped off with a tent stretched over a framework.
Historian Raymond Waters recaptured this tessera
from the wild mosaic the towns formed with these lines:
The main drag was already lined on both
sides by jerry-built structures. Secondary streets were laid out and quickly
showed new stores, cot houses, eating places, dance halls and residences-of
a sort. Many of the store buildings had the high false front that typified
boomtown construction in the Southwest...
Long lines of automobiles stood at the curbs
and in twin rows down the center of the street. The narrow sidewalks, some
of them of board construction, were packed with humanity. Drillers,
roughnecks, roustabouts, pumpers, switchers, gaugers, lease hounds,
carpenters, gamblers, dance hall girls, store clerks, housewives and
representatives of a hundred other trades and avocations rubbed shoulders in
passing. |
At the height of this in-pouring of people in
1930, some historians contend, the population of the combined towns and areas
reached 20,000. This figure, perhaps, has been greatly exaggerated with time and
retelling. The actual number was a great deal lower as this Associated Press
story, filed from Hobbs on Oct. 24, 1930, clearly substantiates:
Population of Hobbs is estimated at from
12,000 to 16,000 as hundreds of new citizens are arriving every week and
many others who were unable to secure work are leaving.
0. C. Goodwin, secretary of the chamber of
commerce, places the number at somewhere between 12,000 and 15,000. ‘There
are more than 12,000 people here now,' said Goodwin, ‘who might be called
permanent residents. Of course it looks like we might have many more.
Postmaster Dale Roberts has asked for city
delivery. He said he was handling around two and a half tons of mail a day
in the Hobbs post office. ‘ We have 5,000 people a day asking for mail at
our general delivery windows,' Roberts said. ‘We began in a small room
with one or two clerks. Then we enlarged our space...' |
As this boom moved toward its inevitable end, it
was common to find community leaders predicting a population of 20,OW by the
turn of 1930. Real estate man A. G. Gurley, a promoter of the Hobbs townsite,
made such a prediction which grabbed headlines in the May 27 issue of The Hobbs
TimesHerald, which itself had come into existence four days earlier as Hobbs's
first daily newspaper. With his prognostications Gurley also reported the sale
of $75,000 worth of real estate "within the past 10 days." He
estimated 80 per cent of all property in the downtown business section of the
Hobbs Townsite Company already had been sold. The same newspaper story impressed
its readers with more startling facts by revealing that 20 lumber companies were
in existence and Unable to fill orders for lumber needed in the building
explosion, although the railroad was shipping 40 to 50 cars daily loaded with
materials. Of population growth the story related:
As bus lines come in loaded to capacity with
new arrivals and each Passing day sees scores of new cars parked in the
streets, keen calculators are hard put to keep tab on calculative
population figures for the city.
Perhaps the best estimate of the population
of the city is that emanating from the several houses dealing in real
estate. An average stricken from the several calculations of the dealers in
homesites, would indicate that the city's population now has passed the
10,000 mark. |
At that time 57 drilling rigs were operating in
the Hobbs field, and more locations were marked for drilling.
The growth of the many Hobbs settlements was
boundless those first five months in 1930, and almost daily a new notch in
community progress was reported. April and May, alone, were months to remember:
The first train of the Texas & New Mexico line, not yet completed to
Lovington, arrived in Hobbs on April 19 with Gov. Richard C. Dillon and a
platoon of state (one was Corporation Commissioner Hugh Williams) and railroad
officials alighting to attend a massive celebration; in May two promoters, whose
names were recorded only as Malloch and Singleton, announced that the new town
of Borger, located four and one-half miles northwest of Hobbs, was platted and
ready to receive a steady stream of buyers and businesses; the officials
developing New Hobbs, taking the lead in transportation, began construction at
the east end of Main Street on a new airport to replace the temporary landing
strip where between two and five airplanes were landing daily; and on May 28,
the new controlling interest in the New Hobbs townsite company was sold to an
Oklahoma capitalist by the name of John J. Harden.
This news must have had traumatic effect on the
Hobbs townsite investors when they realized who Harden was because he was backed
by unlimited capital and financially could out-distance and out-do any project
which the Hobbs investors could afford. Harden had acquired the New Hobbs
townsite stock owned by A.C. Chesher thus leaving only one other major investor,
J.A. Johnson, a Tulsa banker. Harden, who had made his fortune in a paving
enterprise during the Oklahoma City oil boom, had financed projects in Amarillo
and was the primary owner of a successful nation-wide cemetery business which
specialized in Rose Hill burial gardens.
Although the Times-Herald's account of the
Harden acquisition stated that "everyone in greater Hobbs rejoices" at
the news, it is difficult to imagine that this news brought much joy to the
investors north of Marland Boulevard in Hobbs. After all, Harden was billed as
the "developer of Oklahoma City."
Harden's drive and deeds surpassed all
expectations. He changed the name of New Hobbs Development Company to Lea-Mex
Development Company, selected A. M. Spencer as his general manager and
inaugurated a building program that would establish lasting monuments in his new
city. Among these were the 110room, all-brick Harden Hotel on Main Street, the
elegant $45,000 Derrick motionpicture theater, the area's first hospital and a
new post office. There is evidence, though that the Harden Hotel, a classic for
its time and the largest public structure in Lea County for many years was not
the brain child of the Oklahoma investor. In the Times-Herald story announcing
John Harden's association with New Hobbs, the writer added, "Work will be
continued on the new brick, fireproof hotel, according to officials in charge.
Complete plans and specifications for the building were brought to the city
Saturday..."
Most of Harden's fine monuments did not survive.
After more than 40 years of service the four-story hotel was condemned by the
city and razed in 1974; the Derrick Theater, the community's second after
the Ritz was opened in 1929 on Carlsbad Street, was moved and eventually closed;
and the New Hobbs Post office, which opened in 1930 with Mrs. Glenn Boyd as
postmaster and 500 boxes for patrons, was closed in 1932. 4
Only the hospital building, converted to living quarters, remains today as the
Roosevelt Apartments. Dr. Coy S. Stone, who is still in general practice, was
one of the hospital's first doctors, as were Drs. Conner and McClean. Hobbs first physician was Dr. Allen Terrell who came to the village in 1929.
Although New Hobbs on May 15 had been declared
by the Lea County Commission as an incorporated village it did not come into
being as a functioning city government until June 24, 1930 when the residents
elected Charles Lea Yeager as first mayor and to the board of trustees, D. R.
Miller, Frank Spraker, Will Yelverton and Joe B. Brown. W. H. Fescenmeyer was
elected village clerk. By July the government had begun to move into its new
city hall, the north half occupied by the police court where Judge J. L. Emerson
presided, while the south portion of the structure was the domain of the mayor
and other city offices. A jail building was constructed behind New Hobbs City
Hall.
New Hobbs also quickly developed a zoning law of
sorts which stipulated that a nine-block area was restricted to homes meeting
these specifications: They must cost not less than $1,500, and all out-buildings
were to be set at least 70 feet away from the home. This and other measures made
for more orderly growth than was being experienced in neighboring Hobbs, In a
story dated July 23, 1930, The Santa Fe New Mexican made this comparison
highlighting the difference in growth patterns:
Hobbs recalls to the oil boom follower the
Tulsa of 25 years ago. It was a straggly, squatty sort of a place, with row
after row of temporary buildings that housed thousands of souls in a
seething maelstrom of money rush, lured by the liquid gold that poured
fortunes from the ground-the same ground that swallowed fortunes of others
less fortunate who failed to strike oil.
New Hobbs more resembles the Tulsa that
existed a few years later when the idea of permanency and development of a
city had seeped through the oil-saturated mental process of some of the
wiser heads. Eventually-and soon the same idea will come to Hobbs and the
two cities undoubtedly will become one. That will happen after the first
keen rivalry of developers in both places has settled down into a
realization that all of them will get farther by pulling together and in the
same direction. |
The writer proved himself clairvoyant, but not
until much later. As for rivalry, this is an understatement. If anything,
animosity existed between the many factions that lined up with New Hobbs on the
one side and Hobbs on the other. Dr. J. L. Burke, employed in the New Hobbs
school at that time, recalls that the bitter feeling even extended to children
of the two separate systems, and on occasion led to fights when a youngster from
New Hobbs encountered one of his peer group from the Hobbs schools. 5
An editorialist on the Times-Herald showed his
perception of and sensitivity to the multi-community situation when he penned
this editorial that appeared May 23, 1930:
‘Greater Hobbs' has the distinction of
being the only city in the world in
which three business sections of the city
were built and then before either of these sections had become old enough to
be an incorporated town, had grown together.
Such has been the situation here. A month
ago there were three separate localities set about a mile from each other on
a triangle but now these streets have filled in until the fourth side of the
square is rapidly being built so that the main street of ‘Greater Hobbs'
will soon be four miles long and built around a square mile of land,
The Jal-Wink highway connects Old Hobbs and
New Hobbs. Turner Avenue and Main Street in New Hobbs connect that townsite
and the Hobbs townsite and Carlsbad connects Hobbs and All Hobbs.
A month ago it looked a long way for a new
town to stretch to try to cover the vacancy existing between the three
business sections. Today buildings are springing up so rapidly around this
mile square of land that values are changing to higher levels each day.
A few more weeks and it will become
necessary for the visitor to be directed to town by streets and numbers
rather than had been done in the past of telling him to go to a certain
place in New or Old or All Hobbs. It will be impossible for the stranger to
distinguish where one stops and the other ends. |
Reading between the lines one can find the
conviction that the union of these towns and communities would eliminate the
duplication of services and municipal personnel and bring peace among the
factions, turning their energies toward the achievement of common goals. Profit
and prosperity predominated in most minds and cooperation through consolidation
of government and community units did not fit in the scene for that time. In
fact, a referendum on annexation even as late as Jan. 13, 1932 was defeated in
all but one area, the then Highland Park where residents voted 34 to 21 to join
Hobbs. In the Grimes Addition, the vote was none for and five against, while in
All Hobbs, the opposition drew 20 votes to one lone ballot favoring the
proposal. Since Borger never became a settlement, the question of its annexation
was not involved.
Hobbs and New Hobbs by mid-1930 had become
raucous, open towns. New oil and new money seemed the ingredients for a sort of
madness that fostered an atmosphere not unlike the fabled gold-rush towns of the
earlier Wild West and Alaska. This generated enormities, extravagances and
exaggerations in conduct and appetite and where these exist with few
controls there are always men and women who come to make fortunes from foibles.
These were towns that never slept. The night
spots were also day spots, their clamor and rowdiness continuing 24 hours a day,
offering liquor and women, music and gambling-all in an era when either federal
or state laws forbid all but the most sedate entertainment. Federal Prohibition
and state and local laws against prostitution remained outside the jurisdiction
of the two Hobbses. Many of the taverns, or clubs, were also dance halls by
night and skating rinks by day. After sunset the patron bought a roll of tickets
entitling him to a dance with each ticket. The same was true for the day-time
roller rinks.
Among the clubs that achieved a degree of fame
or notoriety were the Petroleum, Ramona and the Tokyo. 6 Arthur J. Linn, a Santa Fe visitor to Hobbs of that era wrote this memorable
impression of the night life that held sway:
... the oilfield roughnecks had money, and
they spent it-for ‘grub, likker and
wimmen.' This transient population was predominately male. It took a hardy
soul to bring his wife and family into such surroundings. An ordinary fist
fight possibly embellished by grouping, drew little attention whatever and
cutting and shooting scrapes were not uncommon.
When the crews came into town from their
drilling rigs what they wanted was entertainment; either a fight or a frolic
or both...
These pleasure palaces were all cut from the
same pattern. A small ground floor storeroom, with a railing of rough two by
fours enclosing a small space in the middle, the dance floor; an unfinished
and unpainted bar, space for an ‘orchestra' at one end and a few rickety
tables and chairs at the other. Oh, yes, a cashier's cage of two by fours
and chicken wire, where strips of tickets were sold at ten cents per, each
ticket entitling the investor to one dance with the girl of his choice.
If a man got close to the corral fence one
of the unemployed ladies would grab him by the arm, shirt sleeve or any
other piece of clothing on which she could get a purchase, the idea being to
get him to dance with her. You did not choose, you were chosen. The girls
got their cut out of every dance and of course custom and courtesy required
that the gentleman buy his lady a drink after each dance. Another cut for
the girl and her chit went into the top of her stocking then and there.
One requirement for employment as a dance
hall girl was that she own a selection of long evening gowns. I say a
selection, for at the end of any night's activities the current gown had to
go to the cleaners. The reason for this unusual depreciation and depletion
was that the customers, the drillers, seldom went to the trouble and expense
of changing clothes before night clubbing. They wore the same clothes that
they had worn all day. Consequently by the end of a busy evening, a dress
looked like it had been used to mop up a garage floor. I would bet that
there were more evening dresses sold in Hobbs than were sold in Dallas... |
Early in 1930, the Hobbs village government
apparently had intended to circumvent the evolving of a ‘sin city' by
approving Ordinance No. 6, euphemistically called "a list of misdemeanors
and offenses which were prohibited." This restrictive law could have
cleared and closed the gathering places of indulgence and dissipation had the
city been able to afford the number of Peace officers sufficient to enforce the
rules. The ordinance read:
| Any person who shall within the city limits
of Hobbs keep or maintain any public or common dance hall or dance house or
free and easy house for the mingling of sexes or who shall allow in his
house or in his premises a dance or fandango where money or any compensation
be received to enable any person to avail himself of the amusement shall be
deemed guilty of keeping a disorderly house, and any person or persons in
any way connected with any such house or place, or any person who shall
permit any house for any such purpose, shall, upon conviction be punished by
a fine of $5 to $100 and imprisonment of 60 days in the county jail... |
Another portion of this ordinance made it
illegal to operate a "hop joint," while yet another section outlawed
the carrying of deadly weapons, to wit: Pistols, revolvers, sling shots, loaded
or sword cases, or sand bags, anything that can be dangerous, and all residents
found "in the night time in an outhouse, shed, or unoccupied building and
not giving good account of self would be fined."
A Hobbs ordinance approved in June 1930 suggests
the city had resigned itself to the existence of the "peaceful
illegalities" and should realize revenue from them. This law ordered that
all dance halls be licensed at a rate of $1 per day and for not less than three
months at a time. Mayor James Murray Jr., sometime later the head of New Hobbs*
government, took a parallel approach to placing curbs on unbridled night
amusement activities. He was successful in imposing a tax on each cabaret to
defray the cost of employing additional peace officers. When one club owner
refused to pay, his honor and the New Hobbs police chief padlocked the building
until the reluctant man agreed to the tax terms.
Beyond the night life, the streets of this
brawling young giant on the Llano were caught up in the din, uproar, dirt and
sights and smell of the oil boom. Residents and visitors of 1930 remember the
impression of black-the color of the streets that had been oiled with crude to
keep down dust; the blare of the town's radio speaker, placed on a high pole
near Dal Paso Street for public listening and that the conclusion of the
"Amos ‘n Andy" show was a curfew of sorts for the lawabiding; and
that flares from burning gas brought almost daylight conditions to the streets
after sunset.
A writer for the New Mexico Highway Journal came
to Hobbs in 1930 and left this word vignette to capture the flavor of the place:
... Oil rigs were black upon a fainter
blackness and black against a red that was a blare of color like the blast
furnaces of Birmingham at night, in southern darkness.
Hobbs is not New Mexico, it is not anything;
and yet Hobbs is a turmoil of sight and sound, rabble and machinery, combat
and harmony. Hobbs is like nothing before under the sun and yet like all oil
towns. Something that people write about and never capture... |
The journalist recorded that he had heard rumors
that beer was 50 cents a glass and water 10 cents a glass for the first one and
five cents for each one thereafter, but was unable to verify these facts.
Along the streets of the several Hobbs were 19
poolhalls, 34 drug stores, 53 barbershops and 50 oil field supply houses by the
middle of 1930, and the Hobbs pool was producing 150,000 barrels of crude oil a
day. 7 Production had doubled itself in the month of June, alone, while the
going wage for the average oilfield worker was a whopping $125 per month.
Without knowing, the towns nourished by oil had reached the apex of their boom.
They were less than six months away from the time when the Great Depression
would sweep over the Llano in wave after wave of falling oil prices.
Top
of the Page - The
Many Towns of Hobbs - James
Berry Hobbs - Boom
Collapse and Recovery - Hobbs: Oasis
on the Llano - Bibliography
James
Berry Hobbs
In all the turmoil of boom and growth in 1930 it
probably struck no chord of recognition with most of the new oil people of the
Hobbs towns when James Berry Hobbs died March 10 of that year. He was only 42
years old.
It was his foresight and energy as a youth that
led to the long chain of events culminating in the birth of the black gold-rush
city. Had he not given the community a store and a post office, establishing the
heart and name of a settlement, the many cities of Hobbs might never have
existed where they did on the Llano Estacado. Apparently it was never his
intention that the settlement should splinter. He had founded a townsite, hoping
this would become Hobbs. Instead, those who succeeded him on the land
established divergent aims for the early pattern of development that came with
the riches of oil.
He died disinherited from those riches,
according to his son, Berry Lee Hobbs, who, like his father, is a Lea County
farmer. The founder profited not at all from the great wealth that emanated from
his former lands, the son related. He said his father sought the office of
county treasurer only because it paid a steady salary which he needed. The
senior Hobbs was living in Lovington and serving the last year of his final
two-year term when he died of pneumonia.
Historians can only wonder if James Berry Hobbs
was disappointed with the boom spectacle unfolding on the once remote lands
where he had lived and planned for the future. A quiet man not given to
flamboyance, he probably did not understand the wild life styles exhibited in
the excitement of an oil boom, nor the unorthodox pattern of a portion of the
society it molded.
His widow, Ellen Colkin, daughter of a pioneer
family in the Hobbs community, survived until June 29, 1956. They were the
parents of two other sons, Roy Dawson Hobbs, who died in the military service in
World War II, and James Richard Hobbs, a resident of Lubbock, Texas.
At the high point of the oil boom newspapering
in the Hobbs towns was enjoying its own pinnacle of prosperity. Two weeklies,
The Hobbs Times and The Herald Tribune, records show, were born the same day,
May 16, 1930, yet little more than a week later, May 23, they had merged to form
The Hobbs TimesHerald. This publication in turn, was absorbed by The Hobbs News
on Aug. 24, 1930, and the latter newspaper became
Hobbs'
first daily when it rolled off the press Dec. 31 of that year as The Hobbs Daily
News. It published daily until Jan. 14, 1931 when the effects of the depression
forced it to return to weekly status. The Hobbs News held doggedly to life as a
weekly during the sag in the Hobbs economy after 1930, and on May 1, 1936
resumed publication as a daily morning newspaper. The Hobbs Daily News became a
companion newspaper to The Hobbs Daily Sun (founded July 27, 1936), and on March
27, 1937 both were combined into the present Hobbs Daily News-Sun.
Although the Hobbs towns of mid-1930 rose from
the Llano much in the manner that workmen would erect a set for a town in a
western movie, some permanent structures came on the scene. The all-brick Harden
Hotel, for instance, got under way June 5 of that year and when completed was a
show-place of its day. A little further north at 206 Carlsbad Street in Hobbs,
the Thompson Hardware Store was completed, becoming the first brick structure on
that thoroughfare. Down Carlsbad Street, from Shipp Street to Dal Paso, were
wooden sidewalks and on either side hardly any vacant spaces still existed.
Business homes, mostly wooden with high false fronts, offered a wide array of
services and goods.
Two of the Carlsbad Street establishments which
achieved some renown for that day were The Model, a store that specialized in
fine men's fashions, and just across the street the Oil King Cafe, opened May
19, 1930 by R. B. Beckler (nicknamed Oil King Blackie) and Leonard Kilburn.
Located at what is today 123 West Broadway, this was one of the largest eating
places in the area and attracted lease speculators, oilfield workers and was a
favorite with the towns' policemen. Among other places to dine were Frenchys,
advertised as being "clean," and the New Hobbs Cafe where lunch,
featuring hot biscuits every day, could be had for 25 cents. Elsewhere prices
were equally low: Choice meats were 15 cents per pound, a Simmons day bed was
$10 and a new Ford sold for $500.
By night, a great deal of activity shifted to
Dunnam Street where many of the speakeasies, dance halls, nightclubs and houses
of ill-repute were clustered waiting for the oilfield worker's easy money. It
was accepted that some men, fresh in from the fields after a week of labor,
would squander their entire earnings here, then return to work to accumulate
enough money to do the same thing all over again.
As the year narrowed down, work continued in
both Hobbs and New Hobbs to improve municipal and utility services for the
residents. The New Hobbs Reporter of August 21 exulted that in New Hobbs Lea-Mex
Development Company had given assurances that natural gas for domestic and power
uses would be available to the municipality shortly from Phillips Petroleum
Company's new plant two miles west of the town, and "its output will be so
great in volume and so well treated that this city may expect an ideal supply
through the system of Lea-Mex. The Hobbs Daily News of October 16 reported the
impending movement of the city hall and police station from a building on Turner
Street to Taylor Street at the rear of the Chamber of Commerce Building:
| At the present time Judge George T. Harris
has an office in the Estes Building and all police cases are brought to his
office. The office adjoins that of Estes and Drimi and because of the large
number of arrests made daily it is almost impossible for any other than
police business to be transacted in the suite. |
By moving to the new location on Taylor street,
just west of Shipp Street, the city will have an office of its own and will be
able to operate more efficiently without causing discomfort to the
lawyers in the building on Turner Street.
Top
of the Page - The
Many Towns of Hobbs - James
Berry Hobbs - Boom
Collapse and Recovery - Hobbs: Oasis
on the Llano - Bibliography
Boom
Collapse and Recovery
As 1930 came to an end, the tide of humanity
that had washed over the Llano depositing a clutch of towns, suddenly reversed
itself and began moving in the opposite direction. Carried with it were
thousands of people and occasionally the thrown-together houses they had lived
in. They simply loaded the structure, if small enough, on the bed of a truck and
drove away. Some of the larger frame buildings were placed on wheels and towed
down the caliche roads, dropping nails as they went. Automobiles and trucks that
followed these routes later had frequent flat tires caused by the bed of nails
left in the wake of extensive house moving, Residents who remained in the Hobbs
towns had to be on a sharp lookout to make certain their own dwellings were not
jacked up by some retreating ruffian and taken away as part of his baggage
train.
Prompting the exodus from Hobbs was the decline
in oil prices, finally struck by the depression that was undermining the
national economy. As January 1931 was ushered in the price of crude at Hobbs had
dropped from $1.05 a barrel to 50 cents; and the downward spiral continued: In
March, 40 cents a barrel; in April, 371/2 cents; in June, 25 cents and, finally
in July the rock-bottom price of 10 cents per barrel. Some of the individuals
who left the area where the drilling rigs stood silent, scattered with the four
winds to make out as best they could. Still many others rode the great distances
to new East Texas oil booms at Kilgore and Longview.
When the retreating stampede of humanity finally
disappeared in the clouds of dust, Hobbs' towns were sadder and soberer places.
Some residents who remained to share the hard and bitter times say the business
district resembled a ghost town with weeds thrusting up through the board walks
and reconquering the spaces where buildings had been removed. One-fourth of the
structures left were deserted; however, Hobbs was not a ghost town of about 500
inhabitants as incorrectly described by some later historians. A census taken
Oct. 14, 1931 in Hobbs showed 1,210 residents, and this did not include those
living in New Hobbs and All Hobbs. Dr. J. L. Burke, one town pioneer who did not
make an exit, estimates the total population between 2,500 and 3,000 when the
boom collapse had done its worst to the area. One indicator of a sizable number
of people remaining-more than were living in Lovington at the time-were the
number of teachers. When school opened in the fall of 1931, 27 were required by
the classrooms of the school systems.
Telltale signs of the economic difficulties were
everywhere in the months that followed. The State Bank of Hobbs was doomed and
to save itself, merged on July 8, 1931 with Lea County State Bank of Lovington.
(Two years later, in 1933, a branch of the Lovington operation was opened in
Hobbs at Shipp and Broadway. It was not until April 5, 1938, that the
institution's name was shortened to Lea County State Bank and that year its
headquarters operation was moved to Hobbs. With a name change on July 30,1959,
it became New Mexico Bank & Trust Company.)
In spite of the economic doldrums, Hobbs was
given town status on Nov. 19, 1931, but the city clerk heard the gloomy news
that her salary would be cut from $100 a month to $50. The following February J.
F. Maddox of the electric utility company was asked by the town board of
aldermen to reduce electrical rates, and when rates of the Hobbs Gas Company
were also challenged, Roy Moyston agreed to reduce them five per cent; and as
1932 moved forward, the city practiced even greater economies by naming Clifford
Lasley to the post of both police and fire chief with a monthly salary of $50.
In August, the town government ordered the Hobbs Gas Company to reduce fire plug
rates from $5 to $1 per month.
Hobbs was down, but not out during the early
1930s. Without the frenzied activity in the oilfields, the pace of life
slackened, residents made the most of what was available to them. So suspended
was the animation of things during this era that even the mayor found few duties
that demanded great dispatch. One such was Mayor L. W. Gay who became widely
known as the "rocking chair mayor." Gay was elected April 9, 1934,
defeating Dantzler L. Bodie by a vote of 416 to 238. His honor, a very corpulent
man, owned a grocery store on Carlsbad Street, and residents of that day recall
that he so disliked moving about that he spent most of his time in a
solidly-built rocking chair. When customers came in the store to make a
purchase, the resting mayor would indicate the location of the item on the shelf
and allow the individual to serve himself. Gay's large cat, following the
attitude of his master, spent much of its time basking and dozing in the
sun-filled store window. Strangers coming to Hobbs and asking how to find the
mayor were told to go down the street to the "grocery with the cat in the
window."
The lull did not last long. In 1934, renewed
interest in oil at Hobbs led to a new spurt of drilling activity which would
begin moving the area on its way to lasting prosperity and the formation of a
city. As the local economy began to recover, the population showed slow but
steady growth. The census of May 20, 1935 enumerated 2,995 people living in
Hobbs, again excluding the residents of New Hobbs and All Hobbs. By this time,
the town had lost much of its rowdiness and the night places that appealed to
baser instincts. Contributing factors to the change in conduct and attitude were
several. A new type of individual, educated and trained in new oil exploration
technology, was coming into the community, and national Prohibition had been
repealed making legal the sale of liquor, 8 while placing it under strict local and state controls.
In the next two years a steady stream of new
residents came to Hobbs with accelerated oil exploration and discovery, and by
early in 1937, a vast majority of residents and the community leadership could
discern the futility of continuing the town divisions. New Hobbs' Board of
Trustees, led by Mayor James M. Murray Jr., acted on April 5, 1937 to take the
first step in the direction of consolidation of town governments. This body
adopted a resolution in which a committee of three trustees was appointed to
meet with a counterpart group from Hobbs to discuss bringing the towns together
under one government. After Hobbs' board took similar action the joint committee
met April 12, 19V. It included from New Hobbs, Mayor Murray and Trustees F. C.
Ward and W. F. Edwards; from Hobbs, Trustees Grady Thompson, C. W. Jobe and John R.
Brand. They quickly reached agreement that elections should be called in both
towns on the question of unifying under one municipality.
On May 18, 1937, New Hobbs residents voted 226
to 41 in favor of joining their town with Hobbs, while that same day residents
north of Marland in Hobbs approved the proposal by a margin of 283 to 20. With
these overwhelming election results in hand, Hobbs' Board of Trustees on May 24
adopted an ordinance annexing New Hobbs to the City of Hobbs, and on May 30 the
towns became one. Hobbs moved into a modern era on June 8 when Gov. Clyde
Tingley issued a proclamation declaring city status for the municipality.
Serving on the first city council were, Mayor Ross Walker and councilmen Jimmy
Robinett, C. W. Jobe, James M. Murray Jr. and Glenn Bish. Hobbs had moved from a
raw frontier community into a modern city on the Llano within slightly less than
a decade. Residents on May 8, 1949 approved the present form of municipal
government, mayor and city commission, by a vote of 927 to 468.
Such later strides in government would not have
been possible had Hobbs not made a remarkable recovery from the ravages of the
depression. This economic come-back was not only attributable to the return of
crews to the oilfields, but this time they came equipped with better technology
for the job at hand. Exploration at greater depths and development of equipment
that could drill to nearly 3 miles below the earth's surface made possible the
exploitation of ever richer oil-bearing strata. As a result of both new oilfield
activity and new drilling methods, Hobbs' growth from 1934 was steady. An
unofficial count in 1936, just two years later, gave the city 8,000 residents.
Presumably this included all of the areas contiguous to Hobbs.
Hobbs in this year and for the remainder of the
decade was called the fastest growing city in the United States and may have
well deserved this reputation. The official head-count of 1940 showed 10,641
residents, while city and state officials were counting about 14,000 people in
the municipality.
An El Paso Times reporter spent a great deal of
time in the city in October of 1936 and filed this observation about the city's
revival:
It (Hobbs) is citified enough to have a
thoroughly modern hotel and many excellent brick and concrete buildings, and
a police chief who wears a new well-pressed olive-drab uniform, cap and
badge. But Hobbs wouldn't fool you. It's a big, pulsing oil town yet; a town
of blocks and blocks and blocks of shack structures rubbing elbows with the
uppercrust of stores; with crowds and bustle, and all the hurly-burly that
goes with 1,000 oil wells and more drilling every week.
This is one of the characteristics of the
American people that when disaster destroys what they have built nine times
out of ten they rebuild better than before.
You may remember that Hobbs had a bad fire
some time back. It wiped out 13 establishments. Lucky it did not take more,
the fire hazard being high. Now, good, sound brick buildings stand where the
flames left only blackened wreckage and ashes.
Fourteen permanent business buildings have
been erected in recent months, an $87,000 high school building is under
construction, together with a Baptist church costing $50,000 and the Frey
Hotel which with its furnishings will represent another $50,000
investment...
Hobbs has submitted a PWA (Public Works
Administration) project for a sewer system. It involves a proposed
expenditure of $150,000...
Hobbs has, however, obtained the first five
blocks of a street paving project, financed by direct assessment... |
While other cities on the Lea Llano endured a
sluggish growth rate during the late 1930s and until after the end of World War
II, Hobbs was becoming a zestful trade center and increasingly the place where
oil companies and oil well supply houses were locating; thus by the end of 1939
some impressive advances had been placed in the plus column of the city's
expansion.
Records show that 21 new business houses had
applied for construction permits, while numbered among the industries were 11
equipment companies, four dealing with drilling clay and acidizing, and a host
of others devoted to housing construction, trucking and rig building. Also new
on the scene were: Hobbs City Hall (still in use today but greatly expanded),
completed in 1939 at North Turner and Cain Streets at a cost of $65,000, part of
which was financed by a PWA matching grant of $35,000; a $7,500 city library,
using PWA funds, opened in 1938; the first Hobbs Country Club, valued at
$38,000, and completed in February 1938; and a new $175,000 sewer plant,
completed in October 1938 to serve 186 city blocks.
The resurgence of a viable economy also was
reflected in the Hobbs School System, which in 1939 had 2,000 elementary and
junior high school students, 500 enrolled in Hobbs High School and a total
faculty of 61 teachers. To serve this size educational program, the city had
constructed a new elementary school costing $140,000, a junior high school at a
cost of $93,000 and an $87,000 high school (now Houston Junior High School) in
1938 and 1939. The new high school gymnasium, valued at $27,000, was also being
completed in 1939. To finance the school, library and city hall construction
program, Hobbs received six PWA grants totaling $413,924.
In 1939 and 1940, Hobbs completed 150 city
blocks of paving. With this the WPA constructed accompanying street drainage,
sidewalks and curbs. Better transportation also was assured by the completion of
hard surface paving on U. S. Highway 180 between Carlsbad and Hobbs.
Hobbs was benefiting widely from the activity in
the Lea County oilfields where there were now 18 pools under more than 54,000
acres of land. The gross value of Lea County oil and gas produced in 1938,
alone, was $35.3 million which was about 93 per cent of the total produced in
all of New Mexico.
Few cities in the United States had ever evolved
so far in hardly more than a decade. Hobbs, despite boom and collapse in its
economy, had grown from what was virtually a wilderness spot to a modern
American municipality, while overcoming the disadvantages of a fractured local
government system in the early years of its existence.
Any history of Hobbs' first fabulous decade as a
city would be incomplete Without some mention of the bountiful communications
that existed in the form of newspapers. Including those already discussed, there
were starts and stops in more than 20 publishing ventures. This is a fairly
complete list of those not covered earlier in this chapter: The American,
weekly, published only in 1932; The Daily Bulletin, also known as Shatzel's
Bulletin, from June 1933 to March 23, 1935; The Hobbs Daily American, appearing
briefly in 1939; Hobbs Daily Bulletin, from 1938 to 1940; The Hobbs Morning Post
[And Lea County Courier], from May 5, 1938 to April 13, 1940; The Hobbs Press,
appeared only in 1935; The Tumbleweed, appearing between March 1935 and June 26,
1942.
Several newspapers were founded in the 1940s. A
publication known as the Hobbs Defender came to life in June 1941 as a
monthly, but seems not to have survived the first edition; The Hobbs Morning
Bulletin existed as a daily briefly it, 1941 and then folded; and The Hobbs Flare became
the last new publication to make an appearance-first as a weekly from March 26,
1948 to June 18, 1949, and then on a daily basis until July 24, 1951, when it
returned to weekly status. it remains in print at present.
Before the 1930s ended another form of
communication made its debut in Hobbs. This was Radio Station KWEW which began
broadcasting on Aug. 8, 1938. Radio Station KHOB opened in 1954, adding a
companion FM broadcast facility, KSCR (first named KLDG) in 1965. In July 1971
Radio Station KCIA, emanating from Humble City, became the third voice on the
airways, and in March 1975 it also developed a companion station, KPOE FM.
After being consolidated into one city in 1937,
Hobbs did not remain the only government entity in the area for very long. A
completely new city, peopled with 5,000 residents, served by their own
newspaper, post office, shops and theater, suddenly grew from the Llano and on
Hobbs' doorstep. This was Hobbs Army Air Field, which began building on May 1,
1942, when the first detachment of the U. S. Corps of Army Engineers set up
their advance post and went to work on rangeland just seven miles north of the
city and adjacent to State Road 18.
Creating a military base here to train fighting
men for the World War II combat areas in Europe and Southeast Asia was inspired
by Col. John G. Armstrong, at that time director of training for Roswell's Army
air field. He visited Hobbs early in 1942 and recommended the area to the Army
as the location for a training base because the surrounding country offered
"perpetual flying weather."
The Army, with its machines and construction
expertise, soon found carving out a place of human habitation and work from the
Llano was every bit as formidable as it had been in the days of the pioneers.
Once down past the thin covering of topsoil, digging tools struck the hard layer
of caliche rock, so the military builders resorted to explosives and heavy power
equipment to dig foundations, cut ditches for utility lines and build the
asphalt-topped runways of the base. Later, some of the rock was used for
decoration along walk-ways and lawns. When completed the Army base's appearance
must have been pleasing as indicated in this news story which appeared in the
Hobbs Daily News-Sun of the period:
| ... Where prairie short grass was swept away
by the bulldozers, lawn grasses have
been introduced and many well-watered and green grass areas make living
brither as the post reaches maturity. |
The Army men also discovered some striking
similarities between their at first unfinished military installation and that of
an early pioneer town with unpaved streets. The prairie mud, the consistency of
melted chocolate, clung to the feet of the troops on their way to the flying
line, and every-day existence was generally dirty and dusty until the base roads
were paved. Actually, the first contingent of men arrived for training while
construction was still in progress, and this was the scene that greeted them:
Latrines were still to be built, water faucets and showers gave forth only cold
water and the streets were only paths on the cattle range.
Under its first commander, Col. Milton M.
Murphy, Hobbs Army Air Field was given the mission of training bombardier
cadets; however, in October 1942 it was designated as the Army's first four-engine
pilot transition school. This meant that the base took pilots who had received
their wings and commissions and trained them to command the four-engine Flying
Fortress (B-17). This school was their last step before being trained at still
another base as part of a crew which would fly the huge aircraft when it arrived
for service in a combat area. The base also trained personnel in operation of
the B-24 Liberator Bomber.
As the air field grew in scope and size, basic
training also was offered for enlisted men before they took on the base's
tougher schooling in how to repair and maintain fighting aircraft, and the area
was filled with platoons of marching men learning the fundamentals of Army life.
These troops were assigned to the 387th Base Headquarters and Air Base Squadron.
In addition to the ground school, or training in aviation mechanics, the base
developed a Bomber Pilot Approach School in which each Flying Fortress pilot
received the basics in dropping bombs on what The Hobbs News-Sun, at that time,
depicted as "Nazi-enslaved Europe or Jap-held South Pacific islands."
A detachment of Air WACS was added to the military base on June 16, 1943, and
all of the air field's schools and operations were placed under one command, the
3017th AAF Base Unit (Pilot School Specialized Four-Engine) in 1944.
Reaching the height of its development, Hobbs
Army Air Field published a newspaper, The Bomb Blast, and offered such
facilities as officers' and enlisted men's clubs, a post exchange, general
store, restaurant, soda fountain, an eightlane bowling alley, field gymnasium,
motion picture theater and two swimming pools.
Having served its purpose, the air base was
deactivated in 1946. Hobbs officials made an attempt to keep the field operating
and even financed a study to impress military officials in Washington and
persuade them of the base's importance to the national defense picture. Instead
Clovis won with its bid to keep what is now Cannon Air Force Base operating, and
the Hobbsans' effort came to naught. Not since Col. William Rufus Shafter's
Buffalo Soldiers had military men served on the Llano, and now the soldiers were
gone again-perhaps forever.
Top
of the Page - The
Many Towns of Hobbs - James
Berry Hobbs - Boom
Collapse and Recovery - Hobbs: Oasis
on the Llano - Bibliography
Hobbs:
Oasis on the Llano
As World War 11 receded, Hobbs continued to move
toward becoming an industrial, commercial and educational center on the Llano
Estacado. Endeavor in these three fields would see the city evolve into Lea
County's largest metropolitan area with a population of about 34,000 by 1976,
the Bicentennial year of the nation's founding.
Even with the closing of Hobbs Army Air Field
something of value accrued to the city. This was the 2,800 acres which the base
had covered and a portion of the facilities, including the runways, which
remained on the land. On Dec. 23, 1948, the city of Hobbs acquired the property
for $2,283, and has since designated it as Hobbs Industrial Air Park, providing
sites for new industries and recreation which requires more than the normal
amount of space.
Before the 1940s ended, Hobbs saw established
its second bank, the First National Bank of Lea County, which opened in May 1949
with capital of $150,000. Instrumental in organizing the new bank were W.H.
(Bill) Bailey, who became vice president and secretary of the board of
directors: Chairman A. C. Kimbrough and other members, Dr. C. S. Stone, Carl Landrum
(the first president), B. H. Nolen and George Mansur. Originally located at 406
North Turner, the bank opened a branch on April 1, 1972 in Lovington. The city's
third bank, Liberty National Bank, is a branch of the main bank in Lovington and
was opened in 1971. Together with New Mexico Bank & Trust Company, the three
institutions this year had deposits of more than $163 million and assets of more
than $183 million.
Since the beginning of the 1950s decade, schools
and education in Hobbs have realized more rapid advances than in any other part
of New Mexico. These have been made in the realms of both public and private
education.
Today's modern high school complex, located on a
45-acre campus, was begun in 1952 with the first segment of construction
financed by a $1.5 million school bond issue. Augmented over the years, the
complex now includes a Ralph Tasker Arena (gymnasium) and Nelson Tydings
Auditorium, the two largest such facilities in the state, and Watson Memorial
Stadium. From a portion of a $2,8 million bond issue approved by voters in May
1975, the complex will be further enhanced with an indoor swimming pool, girls'
gymnasium and a field house to serve the stadium. Presently Hobbs High School
provides educational facilities for more than 1,575 students.
The Hobbs School System has grown to include
three junior high schools, Highland, Houston and Heizer, and 10 elementary
schools. The total system includes 6,944 students and 396 teachers, and is
operating on a current budget of $13,028,947. Investment in the Hobbs
educational facilities amounts to more than $27.5 million in buildings, and more
than $31 million in equipment.
While the public schools were being shaped to
fit the needs of a modern city, the need for higher education was not ignored.
The first institution of higher learning, the College of the Southwest, was
founded in August 1956 by B. Clarence Evans and several associates. They named
it Hobbs Baptist College, a school offering a 4-year curriculum and a liberal
arts degree. The school was granted its charter on August 15, 1956 by the New
Mexico Secretary of State. The college was re-chartered on March 3, 1958 as New
Mexico Baptist College, and again on Feb. 9, 1962, changing the name to College
of the Southwest. Now an independent college, the institution has an enrollment
of about 150 students. Its facilities were expanded in October 1976 with the
dedication of the $473,000 Mabee Southwest Heritage Center, which provides an
auditorium and work rooms for a variety of activities ranging from the
performing arts and lectures to seminars and study groups.
Establishing New Mexico Junior College, the only
institution of its type in the state, required nearly six years of community and
legislative effort beginning in 1960. After enabling measures for the junior
college were approved in 1963, a steering committee was formed to begin work on
creation of the school in Lea County. In a referendum on Oct. 28, 1964, Jal was
the only school district of the county's five to defeat the proposal, thus the
junior college district was redrawn and a second and successful referendum was
held Jan. 20, 1965.
Named to serve on the first New Mexico Junior
College Board were Finn Watson and George Mansur of Hobbs, F. L. Heidel of
Lovingon, Ferrel D. Caster of Tatum and R. L. McLean of Eunice. The four
communities are the main support areas of the NMJC district which finances the
school's operation through a 4mill levy in taxation. The board selected Dr. H.
C. Pannell as the first junior college president, who began duties July 1, 1965
in temporary offices on East Taylor Street in Hobbs.
Construction of the college campus facilities
began Feb. 15, 1966, and fall enrollment that year was 728 students. Since
development of NMJC started on the 234-acre campus, taken from the Hobbs
Industrial Air Park, the institution has grown to encompass 12 buildings and a
rodeo arena, with a total value of $10 million. Average enrollment is 1,100
degree students and 4,000 attending special classes in the junior college's
continuing education series.
In the manner of most early pioneer settlements
the Hobbs community of frontier days had church services, both union and
denominational in the school house; but today 58 churches representing 19
denominations, many of them sponsoring Spanish-speaking missions, are available
in the city, or are located near the city limits.
Hospital care is offered by the privately owned,
$7 million Llano Estacado Medical Center, which was opened in June 1974 on Hobbs
Industrial Air Park land north of the city. Until that time the Hobbs hospital
was a $1.3 million unit of the Lea County General Hospital System. The Hobbs
unit began in 1947 when a $750,000 bond issue was approved for its construction.
Subsequently additions were made in 1959 and during the 1960s. The unit was
closed when the medical center was activated.
Hobbs city government in 1976 is itself big
business. The municipality is administered from a complex that covers most of a
city block and includes the original city hall constructed in the late 1930s.
There are 263 city employees, counting the 66 members of the Hobbs Police
Department. The cost of operating this government for the fiscal year 1976-1977
is $5,796,650. The budget has multiplied many times since the city clerk was
paid $100 per month in 1930, or when the Hobbs budget was $55,480 for the
1938-1939 fiscal year. Services offered residents have expanded most rapidly
during the 1970s, and are being planned for during the remainder of the century.
Currently the city is beginning construction of a $5 million sewer plant and is
conducting studies to determine water and sewer requirements when Hobbs reaches
a projected population of 50,000 in 1995.
The city government also operates a wide range
of recreational and educational services ranging from parks and swimming pools
to arts and crafts classes in Will Rogers Community Center and the city library
with more than 58,000 volumes. The library was opened April 1, 1969 in Clinton
Park at a cost of $298,000.
Hobbs in many ways is still a boomtown, riding
on the production of energy and also in more recent years, the creation of a
trade center that reaches an estimated 85,000 consumers within a 75-mile radius
of the city. Seldom now do residents leave the Llano to shop in distant places.
By a wide margin the trend is reversed, with shoppers gravitating toward Hobbs
from rural areas and towns in both West Texas and New Mexico. Main areas of
trade in the city are: The downtown, maintained by continuing renovation, and
five major shopping centers. In 1975 Hobbs' 1,086 businesses recorded sales
valued at $199,818,108.
In 48 years, Hobbs has moved from a rural
community on the wilderness Llano to occupy the status of a fully modern
American city. For the majority of cities of equal size this feat has been
accomplished only after a century or more of existence on the average.
New Mexico historian Erna Fergusson visited the
city once in its young oil days in the 1930s. What she found apparently appalled
her and clouded any vision she might have had about the city's future. She could
not picture a Hobbs in the mainstream of modern American civilization, a
city with quiet streets, sedate homes and cultural values. The historian penned
this harsh description of the city, one of many that Hobbs has been and one that
long ago vanished:
| The latest oil development is at Hobbs,
where two thousand wells spume flame and smell up the sky. Texas' richest
oilfield is in New Mexico-or in the Forth-ninth State! Driving into it at
night is a choking experience. Roads are rutty and corrugated by mammoth
trucks, which have pulverized their surfaces into smother dust, cut by acrid
smells of burning oil. Huge balls of murky fire hang low in a heavy sky. The
town's one street runs like a neon streak of red, green, and white lights.
Chain stores, with familiar fronts and window displays, alternate with bars
and movie houses advertising double features of ‘horse operas' and their
popular stars. Every place on Saturday night poured out a violent blare of
radio noise. Through that came a sound truck, followed by a procession of
cars, and emitting a din too deafening to catch the words. As it passed, it
clarified into coherence: ‘Where are you going tonight?' Ah, a movie ad.
But it went on: ‘Are you laying up treasures in Heaven?' A revival, then,
trying to publicize salvation loudly enough to outshout picture shows and
radio programs. |
Top
of the Page - The
Many Towns of Hobbs - James
Berry Hobbs - Boom
Collapse and Recovery - Hobbs: Oasis
on the Llano - Bibliography
SOURCES AND REFERENCES
(Bibliography)
- Erna Fergusson, Our Southwest, New York, A.
A. Knopf, 1940.
- T. M. Pearce, New Mexico Place Names-A
Geographical Dictionary, Albuquerque, University of New Mexico Press, 1965.
- Pearce S. Grove, Becky J. Barnett and Sandra
J. Hansen, New Mexico Newspapers-A Comprehensive Guide To Bibliographical
Entries and Locations, Albuquerque, University of New Mexico Press in
Cooperation with Eastern New Mexico University, 1975.
- Samuel D. Myres, The Permian Basin-Petroleum
Empire of the Southwest, El Paso, Permian Press, 1973.
- The History of Hobbs, Hobbs Chamber of
Commerce, 1972.
- History of the First Baptist Church, Hobbs,
New Mexico, 1915-1963.
- New Mexico Magazine, Santa Fe, April 1973.
- New Mexico Magazine, Santa Fe, April 1969.
- New Mexico Highway Journal, Santa Fe,
December 1930.
- Santa Fe New Mexican, Santa Fe, July 23,
1930.
- El Paso-Herald Post, El Paso, Nov. 6, 1939.
- El Paso Times, El Paso: Oct. 14, 1936; Nov.
8, 1936.
- The Hobbs Daily News-Sun: Sept. 31, 1936;
May 11, 1939; Special Wartime Edition, 1944; Dec. 31, 1944; Sept. 28, 1951; Oct.
28, 1951; Oct. 29, 1951; Feb. 1, 1956; July 1, 1962; Aug. 1, 1962; Sept. 21,
1967; Jan. 27, 1975; June 2, 1976.
- The Hobbs Times-Herald: May 16,1930; May 23,
1930; May 27, 1930; May 28,1930; May 30,1930.
- The Hobbs Reporter: May 15, 1930; May 29,
1930; June 5, 1930; Aug. 21, 1930; Oct. 11, 1930; Nov. 13, 1930.
- The Hobbs Daily News: Aug. 31, 1930; Sept.
2, 1930; Sept. 11, 1930; Sept. 16, 1930; Jan. 25, 1931.
- The Hobbs News, June 13, 1936.
- The Lovington Leader: June 4, 1920; July 30,
1920; Oct. 10, 1920; Nov. 3, 1920; Nov. 15, 1920; Dec. 3, 1920; June 1, 1928;
July 6, 1928; Feb. 28, 1929; March 1929; Sept. 2, 1929; Oct. 4, 1929; Oct. 29,
1929; June 1, 1938; Oct. 9, 1958.
- Development Program, College of the
Southwest.
- Business -Industry -Education Day, Hobbs Gas
Co., Aug. 28, 1957.
- New Mexico Secretary of State: Copies of
minutes and resolutions of the towns of Hobbs and New Hobbs.
- New Mexico Junior College: Public relations
office material.
- Zimmerman Library, University of New Mexico:
Postmasters -Hobbs and Knowles, N. M., 1903-1915.
- Berry Lee Hobbs of Lovington: Conversation
with the author.
- Minnie Hobbs Byers of Lovington:
Conversation with the author.
- J. L. Burke of Hobbs: Conversation with the
author.
- Mettie Jordan of Hobbs: Conversation with
the author.
- Walter Linam of Hobbs: Conversation with the
author.
- Mrs. Will Terry of Hobbs: Conversation with
the author.
- City of Hobbs: Information supplied the
author.
Footnotes:
1 Verified by Mettie Jordan of Hobbs who was
principal at this school in 1929-1930. Some later historians have erred in
placing the rural school's location at what is today 211 South Second Street. Back to the text
2 Berry Lee Hobbs of Lovington, a son of
James Berry Hobbs, has confirmed that his father's objective in establishing a
post office was to improve the business of the rural store. Back
to the text
3 Nine acres of land at the northwest
corner of present Dal Paso and Marland were not included in the Hobbs Townsite
Company holdings. This was part of the Berry Hobbs homestead and was later
platted as the Berry Hobbs Addition. Back to the text
4 The post office in New Hobbs was moved
to Hobbs in 1930, according to Dr. J. L. Burke. This was the original post
office, founded by Berry Hobbs and eventually located in the E. H. Byers home in
All Hobbs. Burke contends that a truck picked up the post office facility and
literally moved it to the area encompassing the Hobbs Townsite Company north of
Marland Boulevard. Records show that New Hobbs did have its own postal facility
from 1930 to 1932. The towns* names were somewhat misleading. Actually the
original post office was located in 1929 in the area that became New Hobbs. The
town north of Marland was new and rightfully should have been named New Hobbs,
instead of Hobbs, or Old Hobbs, as it was sometimes called. The town of Hobbs
contained none of the pioneer facilities-the store or post office-through which
it could claim the name of Hobbs. By the same token, the town south of Marland
had no reason to be called "New". Back to
the text
5 How far the rivalry was carried is
illustrated by this story. New Hobbs had the only post office facility for a
brief time. Between the two towns were several low places [one where the Holiday
Inn is located now] that filled with water during rainy spells. Little boys sent
to the post office by parents living in Hobbs would taunt New Hobbs children
with these sing-song lines: "Yanh, yanh, you live in Frogtown-just a hop,
skip and jump from the Post Office. " Back to
the text
6 Some of these establishments tried to
outdo the others with the gaudy and the sensational. One of them announced it
would auction a live baby and on the appointed date proceeded to make good on
the promise. It offered for auction a live baby alligator. Back
to the text
7 The first Hobbs Chamber of Commerce on
July 16, 1930 listed these firms as members and, therefore, doing business in
the town: Atlas Supply Co., J. W. Allen Hardware, ABC Battery Service,
American Steam Laundry, Anderson & Hacksinsmith Bakery, Acme Lumber Co.,
Auction Store [Furniture], Anthony & Storey Market, Amerado Petroleum Co.,
Black-Sivalls-Bryson [Tanks], Bills Battery Service Station, Bagley Lumber
Company, Bock & Thomas Transfer Co., Breco Drug Co., Bryan Bros. Groceries,
Brennon-McGranahn Hardware, C. B. Berry Grocery, Bill Wolfords Grocery &
Market, Baltimore Drug Co., Beatty Steam Laundry, Bandy-Dunn Feed & Produce,
Bakers Blacksmith Shop, Bullington Garner Tank Co., M. H. Bridges [Lea County
Service], Continental Supply Co.; Crawford Boiler Works Co., Craig & Son
Lumber, Childress & Pick Construction, Cains Baker Shop, Crows & Co.
Cafe, Cleves Pool Hall, Crosby & Ammons Cafe, Corner Service Station, Jack
Coleman Clothiers, Club Cafe [Tidwell & Sandlin], Pete Cooles Building
Materials, Clay & Powder Co. of El Paso, William Cameron Lumber Co., Clay
Lumber Co., Cities Service Co., Chevrolet Agency, Kirk Cornell of Republic
Supply, Christian & Culbreith's Wichita Coffee Shop, Don Robinson
Generators, Dixie Store Ready to Wear, Dal Paso Hotel, Drane Humphrey Co., Dixie
Lunch Room, Dodd Dads Grocery, Day Drug Co., Dunigans Tool & Supply Co., M.
J. Delaney's International Supply, Rom M. Davis Texas Boiler Works, Emsco
Derrick Equipment Co., Electric Shop Regulation Lighter, Electric Shoe Shop,
Enterprise Market & Grocery, El Paso Clay & Powder Co., Ellis Tank Co.,
Eastland Oil Co. [Hercules Supply Co.], Robert A. Estes [Lawyer]; Fowser Boiler
Works, Frency's Cafe, Famous Clothiers, Red Frick Supply Corp., Gurley Agency,
Golden Transportation, Gray Grocery-Lumber Co., Getty Petroleum Corp., George F.
Getty Petroleum Corp., Hobbs Auto Glass & Top Co., Hobbs Tailoring Co.,
Hobbs Welding & Iron Works, Hobbs Ice Co., W. S. Hiler Jobber, Henry Bagley
Lumber Co., Hall Electric Works, Hays Market & Restaurant, Hobbs Townsite
Co., Highway Garage, Hills Variety Store, Hobbs Laundry, Hoffmans Ready To Wear,
Hobbs Mattress Factory, Higginbotham Bartlett Lumber Co., Hobbs Times Herald,
Hobbs Cabinet Shop, Hinderlter Tool Co., Humble Oil Co., Humble Pipe Line, Hall
Molding Works, Hub Clothing; Harris Lumber Co., International Supply Co.,
International Derrick Equipment Co., Imperial Boiler Works, Ira N. Ellis Tank
Co., Jackson Service Station, J. W. Allen Hardware Furniture Co., Jal Hardware
& Furniture Co., Jack Colemans, Johnson & Hatch Sand & Gravel, M. B.
Jones Drug Store, Kirk Morrow Iron Works, Keith & Hort-Man Furniture, Keiser
Transportation Co., Kilburn & Beckler's Oil King Cafe, R. E. Kinsey of
McGalthen Hotel [New Hobbs], E. M. Karnegay's Milts Barber Shop, Kurtz &
Karlan [The Toggery], The Leader Store Clothiers, Lea County Baking, Lee C.
Moore Co. Derricks, Lippmans Clothiers, Lea County Hardware Service, Longhart
Supply Co., McKinley Chevrolet Co., Lee Moore Co., McDuffys, Model Clothiers,
Mayflower Drug, McKees Cafe; Morse Barber Shop, Model Food Store, Maloney Tank
Co., Murray Tool & Supply Co., Moorhead & Harrington Drug Store, Turner
McCullogh Star Drug Store, Monhollon & Harris West Side Grocery, Tom Moore
Lumber Co., M & M Lumber Co., M System Groceries Market, National Supply
Co., National Cleaners, New Hobbs Lumber Co., Oil Well Supplies Co., Oil Well
Supply Co., Ohio Oil Co., Oil King Cafe, Ostron Market & Grocery, Republica
Supply Co., Randolph Bakery Co., Don Roberson Generator Shop, Rex Billiard Hall,
Roach & Alsup, Ritz Theater, Ritz Pharmacy, H. Robinson Sandrough Cafe,
Shell Petroleum Co., Stahlman Lumber Co., Staples & Fowzer Machine Co.;
Silver Moon Cafe, Harvey P. Shead [Attorney], Southwestern Investment Co.,
Sheldon & Bruden, Star Drug Store, Star Garage, C. L. Singleton Drugs,
Sourdough Cafe, Smith Separator Co., State Telephone Co., The Model Clothiers,
Turner Service Station, Terrell Drug Store, M. E. Tomson Grocery, Tyrone Barber
Shop, The National Clothing Store, Thompson Hardware Co., Dr. Allen P. Terrell
Day Drug Store, H. W. Thompson Grocer, Texas Spring Works, Union Hospital, P. J.
Woolridge Lumber, T, G. White, Westex Supply Co., T. E. Wright Clothing, Walkers
Cafe, Walkers & Jennings Ealkers Cafe, West Side Grocery, Wheeler &
Burns, and Yarborugh Service Station. Back to the
text
8 Legalization of liquor sales in 1934
brought a flood of 14 applications for dispensers* licenses to city hall. Making
application were: Former Mayor Roy Yarbrough, Harry Burnett, Sam Stewart for
Palace Drug, Tex Riley, J. L. Fields, Taylor and Carter for Mint Cafe, A. Caylor
for Pig and Whitle Cafe, Frank Caparoni, Mecca Cafe, J. L. Fields, Payton and
Carter, Elson and Burnett, Midwest Drug, Coney Island Lunch and Hobbs Drug,
owned J. W. Montsenbacker. Back to the text
|